【客家】寻乌客家酿菜：你想像不到的饮食文化
<div class="wx_rich_media_content" id="jsWxContainer"><p style='line-height: 25.6px; max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><br></p><section class="135editor" data-id="24" style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; border: 0px none;'><section class="135brush layout" style='margin: 3px auto; padding: 15px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 24px; box-shadow: rgb(170, 170, 170) 0px 0px 3px; border: 2px solid rgb(240, 240, 240);'><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>提到客家，就会想起客家的饮食文化。与客家菜接触，就能感觉到其无所不酿：酿豆腐、酿苦瓜、酿茄子、酿莲藕、酿萝卜、酿腐皮、酿辣椒、酿豆角、酿猪红、酿鸡蛋、酿冬菇、酿葱白……总之，五花八门。然而，酿菜到底是什么？</p></section></section><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><br style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'></p><p><br></p><section class="135editor" data-id="29735" style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; border: 0px none;'><section style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; width: 0px; height: 0px; clear: both;'></section></section><section class="135editor" data-id="32" style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; border: 0px none;'><blockquote style='margin: 3px; padding: 10px 15px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; border-top-width: 3px; border-right-width: 3px; border-bottom-width: 3px; border-color: rgb(107, 77, 64); border-top-left-radius: 50px; border-bottom-right-radius: 50px; box-shadow: rgb(165, 165, 165) 5px 5px 2px; background-color: rgb(250, 250, 250);'><section class="135brush" data-style='margin-top: 15px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(107, 77, 64); line-height: 2em; font-size: 20px; border-color: rgb(107, 77, 64);font-size: 18px;font-weight:bold;' style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box;'><p style='margin-top: 15px; max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(107, 77, 64); line-height: 1.5em; font-size: 20px; border-color: rgb(107, 77, 64); box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span style='max-width: 100%; font-size: 18px; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><strong style='max-width: 100%; border-color: rgb(107, 77, 64); color: inherit; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>「Hakka百科」</strong></span></p><p style='margin-top: 15px; max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(107, 77, 64); line-height: 1.5em; font-size: 20px; border-color: rgb(107, 77, 64); box-sizing: border-box !important;'><strong style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span style='max-width: 100%; line-height: 40px; font-size: 4px; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>”</span></strong><strong style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>酿，即指在一种原料中夹进、塞进、涂上、包进另一种或几种其他原料，然后加热成菜的方法。”</strong></p></section></blockquote></section><section class="135editor" data-id="29735" style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; border: 0px none;'><section style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; width: 92px;'><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; text-align: center; color: inherit; line-height: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><br style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'></p></section><section style='padding-right: 5px; padding-left: 5px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 10px; color: inherit; border: 1px solid rgb(255, 129, 36);'><section data-width="50%" style='margin-top: -8px; margin-left: 140px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; color: inherit; height: 8px; width: 329px; background-color: rgb(254, 254, 254);'><section style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; width: 8px; height: 8px; border-radius: 100%; line-height: 1; font-size: 18px; text-decoration: inherit; border-color: rgb(255, 129, 36); display: inline-block; color: inherit; background-color: rgb(255, 129, 36);'></section></section><section class="135brush" data-style='text-indent: 2em;' style='margin: 15px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 2em; font-size: 14px;'><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>传说酿菜与<span style='max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>客家人</span>从中原南迁饮食习惯改变有关。从中原迁徙自南方的客家人，因思念家乡美食，而迁移当地又没有包饺子用的面粉，只好就地取材，用不同原料、蔬菜等代替饺子皮包裹馅料，这就形成了多样的客家酿菜文化。</p></section><section data-width="65%" style='margin-bottom: -4px; margin-left: 25px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; color: inherit; text-align: right; height: 10px; width: 427.688px; background-color: rgb(254, 254, 254);'><section style='margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 1px; margin-left: auto; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; border-radius: 100%; line-height: 1; text-decoration: inherit; border-color: rgb(255, 129, 36); display: inline-block; height: 8px; width: 8px; color: inherit; background-color: rgb(255, 129, 36);'></section></section></section><section style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; width: 0px; height: 0px; clear: both;'></section></section><p><br></p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><br style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'></p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><br style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'></p><p style='text-align: center; max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span class="wxart_image" wx-style='display:inline-block;box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important; width: auto !important; visibility: visible !important;'></span><br style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'></p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>▲酿油豆腐</p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><br style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'></p><p style='text-align: center; max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span class="wxart_image" wx-style='display:inline-block;box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important; width: auto !important; visibility: visible !important;'></span><br style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'></p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>▲酿水豆腐</p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><br style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'></p><p><br></p><section class="135editor" data-id="47131" style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; border: 0px none;'><section class="layout" style='margin: 10px auto; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box;'><section data-width="100%" style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 10px; color: inherit; border: 1px solid rgb(89, 195, 249); display: inline-block; width: 670px;'><section style='margin-top: -8px; margin-bottom: -8px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; color: inherit; height: 8px;'><section style='margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: -2px; margin-left: -4px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; border-radius: 100%; line-height: 1; text-decoration: inherit; border-color: rgb(89, 195, 249); display: inline-block; height: 8px; width: 8px; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); background-color: rgb(89, 195, 249);'></section><section style='margin: 4px -4px -4px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; border-radius: 100%; line-height: 1; text-decoration: inherit; border-color: rgb(89, 195, 249); display: inline-block; height: 8px; width: 8px; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); float: right; background-color: rgb(89, 195, 249);'></section><section class="135brush" data-style='text-indent: 2em;' style='margin: 10px; padding: 5px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 2em; font-size: 14px;'><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span style='max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>客家酿菜做法独特，烹制手法也多样。通常酿菜的馅料以各人口味或家庭丰俭而定，一般采用五花猪肉，配上少许香菇、鱿鱼、虾仁等剁碎成馅泥。</span></p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span style='max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>客家酿菜最为出名、敢称头牌菜的就是家家户户过节必煮的酿豆腐。将馅泥酿进火柴盒大小的豆腐块中，用植物油熟炸再转煲即可食用。酿豆腐可以说是客家饮食文化的精粹，也是中原文化的象征。</span></p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span style='max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>不过据说，酿豆芽才是所有酿菜中的最精华部分。</span></p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span style='max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>传说在清朝年间，慈禧太后的御厨中来了个客家大厨，把所有能酿的都酿了一遍之后，老佛爷出了道难题：能酿出豆芽才是真本事。果然就给酿出来了，所酿之馅当然属于山珍海味一类，老佛爷一尝之下赞不绝口，从此爱上了这道菜。</span></p></section><section style='margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: -2px; margin-left: -4px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; border-radius: 100%; line-height: 1; text-decoration: inherit; border-color: rgb(89, 195, 249); display: inline-block; height: 8px; width: 8px; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); background-color: rgb(89, 195, 249);'></section><section style='margin: 6px -4px -4px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; border-radius: 100%; line-height: 1; text-decoration: inherit; border-color: rgb(89, 195, 249); display: inline-block; height: 8px; width: 8px; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); float: right; background-color: rgb(89, 195, 249);'></section></section></section></section><section style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; width: 0px; height: 0px; clear: both;'></section></section><p><br></p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><br style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'></p><p style='padding-top: 6px; padding-bottom: 4px; max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; overflow: hidden; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span class="wxart_image" wx-style='display:inline-block;box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important; width: auto !important; visibility: visible !important;'></span><br style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'></p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>▲酿田螺</p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span class="wxart_image" wx-style='display:inline-block;line-height: 1.6; box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important; width: auto !important; visibility: visible !important;'></span><br style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'></p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>▲酿蟹钳</p><p><br></p><section class="135editor" data-id="47131" style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; border: 0px none;'><section class="layout" style='margin: 10px auto; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box;'><section data-width="100%" style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 10px; color: inherit; border: 1px solid rgb(89, 195, 249); display: inline-block; width: 670px;'><section style='margin-top: -8px; margin-bottom: -8px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; color: inherit; height: 8px;'><section style='margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: -2px; margin-left: -4px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; border-radius: 100%; line-height: 1; text-decoration: inherit; border-color: rgb(89, 195, 249); display: inline-block; height: 8px; width: 8px; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); background-color: rgb(89, 195, 249);'></section><section style='margin: 4px -4px -4px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; border-radius: 100%; line-height: 1; text-decoration: inherit; border-color: rgb(89, 195, 249); display: inline-block; height: 8px; width: 8px; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); float: right; background-color: rgb(89, 195, 249);'></section><section class="135brush" data-style='text-indent: 2em;' style='margin: 10px; padding: 5px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 2em; font-size: 14px;'><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span style='max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>传统的酿菜文化不断创新花样，酿菜品种有了新的发展。譬如被称为“盘龙吐珠”酿蛇、被称为“金钱肝”的酿猪肝，还有酿蟹钳、酿田螺等酿菜，都是令老饕垂涎不止的美味。</span></p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span style='max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>看来，还真是什么都难不倒客家人，万物皆可入馅料。</span></p></section><section style='margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: -2px; margin-left: -4px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; border-radius: 100%; line-height: 1; text-decoration: inherit; border-color: rgb(89, 195, 249); display: inline-block; height: 8px; width: 8px; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); background-color: rgb(89, 195, 249);'></section><section style='margin: 6px -4px -4px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; border-radius: 100%; line-height: 1; text-decoration: inherit; border-color: rgb(89, 195, 249); display: inline-block; height: 8px; width: 8px; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); float: right; background-color: rgb(89, 195, 249);'></section></section></section></section><section style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; width: 0px; height: 0px; clear: both;'></section></section><p><br></p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><br style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'></p><p style='padding-top: 6px; padding-bottom: 4px; max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; overflow: hidden; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span class="wxart_image" wx-style='display:inline-block;box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important; width: auto !important; visibility: visible !important;'></span><br style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'></p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>▲酿苦瓜</p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span class="wxart_image" wx-style='display:inline-block;box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important; width: auto !important; visibility: visible !important;'></span><br style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span style='max-width: 100%; line-height: 1.6; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>▲酿腐皮</span></p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span class="wxart_image" wx-style='display:inline-block;box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important; width: auto !important; visibility: visible !important;'></span><br style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span style='max-width: 100%; line-height: 1.6; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>▲酿豆芽</span></p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span class="wxart_image" wx-style='display:inline-block;box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important; width: auto !important; visibility: visible !important;'></span><br style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span style='max-width: 100%; line-height: 1.6; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>▲酿鸡蛋</span></p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span class="wxart_image" wx-style='display:inline-block;box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important; width: auto !important; visibility: visible !important;'></span><br style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span style='max-width: 100%; line-height: 1.6; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>▲酿葱白</span></p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span class="wxart_image" wx-style='display:inline-block;box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important; width: auto !important; visibility: visible !important;'></span><br style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span style='max-width: 100%; line-height: 1.6; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>▲酿茄子</span></p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span class="wxart_image" wx-style='display:inline-block;box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important; width: auto !important; visibility: visible !important;'></span><br style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span style='max-width: 100%; line-height: 1.6; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>▲酿莲藕</span></p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span class="wxart_image" wx-style='display:inline-block;box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important; width: auto !important; visibility: visible !important;'></span><br style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span style='max-width: 100%; line-height: 1.6; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>▲酿辣椒</span></p><p style='max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span class="wxart_image" wx-style='display:inline-block;box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important; width: auto !important; visibility: visible !important;'></span><br style='max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;'><span style='max-width: 100%; line-height: 1.6; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>▲酿香菇</span></p><p style='line-height: 25.6px; max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>看到这里，你是不是很想吃了？</p><p style='line-height: 25.6px; max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; white-space: pre-wrap; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important;'>你有多久没吃这些客家菜了？</p><p><br></p></div><p></p>
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